New York Fashion Week: men´s Spring/Summer 2018 is here. It is the fifth edition of the event dedicated to men’s fashion and more than 50 designers have been present.
The most star-studded event of the week was Raf Simon’s show, creative director of Calvin Klein. The designer created his own version of “Blade Runner.” Located underneath a bridge in the heart of Chinatown, Raf Simons opted to show his collection at a typical Chinese night market. He returns with some of his greatest hits, remastered for the modern era. He again partners with iconic artist Peter Saville, digging through his archives to resurface graphics inspired by New Order and Joy Divsion. Though that art has become a trope revisited by other labels like Supreme and Undercover, Simons is the progenitor of the trend. Models carried umbrellas and wore all manner of trenches, channeling the iconic one worn by Deckard throughout the film. Sure, with their picturesque features, models often look like Replicants, and while the clothes pay homage to costume designer Michael Kaplan, they also liberally use the film’s typeface in certain pieces.
On the other hand, Willy Chavarria used The Eagle, New York’s iconic leather bar, as a setting for his spring collection. The oversize leather outerwear pieces, baggy pants and caps had a clear Robert Mapplethorpe influence, while striped polos and slouchy cropped khakis had a strong Chollo vibe. plays on renowned American logos such as Coors and Marlboro were reinvented as graphic adornments on sweatshirts, shorts and pants. The show pieces were hand-painted by Chavarria’s friend and collaborator, Brian Calvin. The one-of-a-kind-pieces will be sold at galleries as artwork and turned into prints for the commercial collection.
Similarly, Todd Snyder offered a “melting pot of fashion” in his spring collection, drawing references from around the world — Morocco, France and his own Iowa backyard. In a show that featured a musical performance from Lewis Del Mar, those eclectic references were visible in a suit fashioned after an old French burlap coffee-bean bag, Marrakech-inspired multistripes in linen bomber jackets and a Mexican Baja white and olive hoodie. But the big news came from a radical change in the silhouette. From oversize pleated pants, shorts and Japanese selvage jeans to softly constructed boxy-cut double-breasted suits, “the pants are much baggier,” he said. The designer also showcased his long-standing collaboration with Champion by “resurrecting a few classics,” such as a sweater with a diagonal color-blocked design and logo T-shirts worn under blazers and top coats.